Tuesday, November 9, 2010

all things argentina

So I guess this is really going to be more of "all things buenos aires," since we stayed in B.A. longer than anywhere else, and experienced the culture here more than the other places we visited.  Argentina is a HUGE country, and really, we only got a taste of what the country has to offer.  B.A. houses about a third of the total country´s population, but it certainly has its own unique culture (apart from the rest of the country).  One could write an entire book observing B.A. (and there are several), but I will just write a few things here for you to sample...

*  Everything in Buenos Aires starts LATE.  Most places don´t start serving dinner until 8:00, but most people don´t go until 9 or 10.  With their children.  And parties on the weekends don´t start until midnight, but most people don´t show up until later, and the parties go til the sun comes up.  Don´t these people need any sleep?!

*  The city (and whole country really) is much more "cosmopolitan" than the other countries we visited, offering incredible shopping opportunities, obvious style, and stunning architecture.

*  The porteños (locals) here are very passionate people.  It kind of feels like a junior high dance everywhere you go...you´re certain to see a couple making out at any given place (especially the park).

*  The traditional way to greet and part ways here is a kiss on the cheek, even if you are complete strangers, and even between two men.

*  That being said, the culture is full of machismo...with men calling to women with "compliments" and full of bravado.  Along with machismo, however, there is a chivalrous attitude, such as holding doors and other gentlemanly behavior.

*  B.A. is more ethnically diverse than other South American areas we have visited, with a variety of European countries blending their way into the culture.

*  Both men and women are very into appearance...looking good is highly important.  You can tell by the way many women carry themselves that they want you to look at them and admire them.  Going down any given street you are bombarded by images of "perfect" looking women plastered on billboardsThe pressure to look good is also the cause of a soaring rate of eating disorders and the reason a large number of people get plastic surgery.  Not a culture I would be able to handle in that respect.  I hardly felt adequate in my frumpy travel clothes and hiking boots!!  (Chelsea was very nice to lend me an outfit to "go out" in.) 

*  Its a cruel thing that everyone is so obsessed with watching their perfect figures because this place has the best food and drinks...hands down.  The coffee, wine and food are DELICIOUS.  I haven´t had a bad meal here.  The "fast food" pizza was even good.  And the food court at the mall??  No soggy burgers or cold fries!  Delicious pastas, grilled meats and fresh salads are on the menu.  The food here is really as good as people say it is.

*  Why didn´t someone tell me that the best ice cream in the world is in Buenos Aires?!!  I had no idea.  It is so creamy and delicious, and every heladaria (ice cream shop) has an extensive list of flavors, including several varieties of my favorites...chocolate and dulce de leche.

*  Since I´m on such a food kick, I´ll keep going.  I mentioned in another blog that parrilla is everywhere here.  It consists of barbequed meats, and lots of it.  Many families get together weekly to indulge together.  Another common tradition is that of yerba mate.  We got to experience this at Chelsea and Ale´s place.  One person takes the mate gourd and fills it almost full of dried yerba leaves and covers it with very hot water.  One person then drinks it through a metal straw until the cup needs to be filled again.  Everyone drinks from the same gourd, and apparently there are many rules and guidelines to this common "ritual."

* In B.A., they have their own version of Spanish called "castellano."  Pronounciation of some spanish words and vocabulary varies some from "traditional" español.

*  Not as many stray dogs in B.A. (comparatively) but lots of dog walkers (with several dogs) can be spotted throughout the city.

*  The city is fairly polluted with the high amount of traffic fumes going into the air and garbage lines the streets.  Poor cartoneros (garbage collectors) sort through the garbage bags looking for recyclables to sell, leaving the streets even more of a mess!

* In B.A., they have their own version of Spanish called "castellano." Pronounciation of some spanish words and vocabulary varies some from "traditional" español.
* Within the last decade, there was economic collapse, and more than half of the population was in poverty. With Kirshner in office (the president who just died), the country is slowly becoming more stable. None of this seems to influence the shopping habits of many locals!

* Argentina is more expensive than other South American countries we have visited, but still about four pesos to the American dollar.

That is my brief short attempt at Argentine culture, hope I got it right Chelsea!  Correct me if I am wrong!

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